Lairai Devi Temple (Shirgao)
Lairai Devi Temple – The Divine Firewalker of Goa
Located in the tranquil village of Shirgao in North Goa, the Lairai Devi Temple is one of the most spiritually vibrant and culturally rich places of worship in the region. Dedicated to Goddess Lairai, a powerful and revered form of Shakti (Divine Mother), the temple draws thousands of devotees every year, especially during the famous Shirgao Zatra festival, known for the extraordinary ritual of Dhondachi Fhir – a fire-walking ceremony performed by male devotees.
Divine Legacy of Goddess Lairai
Goddess Lairai is believed to be one of the seven sisters among the Sapta Sateri goddesses worshipped in Goa and surrounding regions. According to legend, these divine sisters once lived together but later chose different places to reside. Lairai Devi chose Shirgao as her abode and continues to be worshipped as the guardian deity of the village.
She is known for her fiery temperament, protective nature, and immense strength. Devotees believe that she blesses her followers with courage, healing, and protection from evil forces. Her energy is said to be especially palpable during the annual fair, where spiritual fervor fills the air.
Architecture and Layout
The Lairai Devi Temple features traditional Goan temple architecture, adorned with a beautifully designed deepastambha (lamp tower), intricate wood carvings, and colorful wall paintings depicting stories of the goddess. The temple complex is surrounded by coconut and betel nut plantations, adding to its serene and natural setting.
- Sanctum Sanctorum: Houses the idol of Lairai Devi, depicted in a commanding yet graceful form, adorned with flowers, silver ornaments, and red clothing.
- Courtyard: A large open space where rituals and the fire-walking ceremony take place.
- Surrounding shrines: Temples and small shrines dedicated to associated deities can also be found nearby.
The Shirgao Zatra and Fire-Walking Ritual
The highlight of the temple’s religious calendar is the Shirgao Zatra, celebrated annually in the Hindu month of Vaishakha (April–May). The main attraction of this festival is the Dhondachi Fhir, where hundreds of male devotees, called Dhonns, perform a breathtaking act of walking barefoot over burning embers as an offering to the goddess.
Dhondachi Fhir – A Test of Faith
- The embers are prepared from sacred wood and are arranged in a long bed called homkhan.
- The Dhonns, dressed in white dhotis and carrying wooden sticks, enter a state of spiritual ecstasy after a night of bhajans, fasting, and meditation.
- As the call is given, they begin walking across the fiery path without showing signs of pain or injury—an act believed to be possible only through the goddess’s divine grace.
This ritual is considered a powerful testament of devotion and spiritual surrender, and it attracts not just locals but also devotees and curious visitors from across Goa and neighboring states.
Cultural Significance
The temple is not only a spiritual hub but also a center of folk traditions, music, and community bonding. During the Zatra, the entire village of Shirgao comes alive with fairs, traditional Goan music, food stalls, and religious discourses. It is a time when families reunite, communities gather, and faith unites people across different backgrounds.
Visiting Information
- Location: Shirgao village, near Bicholim in North Goa, approximately 30 km from Panaji.
- Timings: The temple is generally open from 6:00 AM to 8:00 PM, with special timings during festivals.
- Best Time to Visit: The Shirgao Zatra, though crowded, is the most spiritually charged time to experience the temple’s grandeur. The rest of the year offers a peaceful setting for quiet worship.
Travel Tips
- Dress modestly and be respectful of local customs.
- During Zatra, expect large crowds—arrive early and plan your visit accordingly.
- Avoid photography during sensitive rituals, especially the fire-walking ceremony.
- Local guides and villagers are usually happy to share stories and explain the traditions surrounding the goddess.
The Lairai Devi Temple is more than just a place of worship—it is a living embodiment of Goa’s ancient spiritual roots, cultural resilience, and the unwavering faith of its people. Whether you are a pilgrim seeking divine blessings or a traveler interested in witnessing age-old rituals, a visit to this temple leaves you with a deep sense of awe, reverence, and spiritual enrichment.